Amalfi Coast Day 10-Heading to Naples

AmalfiCoast2012-7572After another great breakfast at Hotel Savoia, we packed up our stuff and then headed down into Sorrento for some last minute souvenirs and, of course, another gelato. While we enjoyed our gelato’s it started down-pouring and the shop instantly filled with people. We waited out the rain for 10 minutes and headed back to the hotel to check out. Peppe, the hotel owner, gave us some things to see in Naples and then off to the bus station to catch the bus to Naples.
The Curreri Viaggi bus goes from Sorrento to Naples Airport for €10 pp and avoids the Circumvesuviana train which stops a lot and is prone to pickpockets. I caught up on my blogging(finally) on the ride back so i didn’t do too much sightseeing. Once we got to the airport, we grabbed to our hotel, Hotel Barbatos.
The hotel is only a few km’s from the airport but it took longer than I expected due to AmalfiCoast2012-7575traffic. The cost of the taxi was €15 even though the meter said €8-something. Hmmm…The driver said there is some airport supplement, which I was a bit skeptical about. We later asked the girl at the hotel and she said that is the typical rate. The girl at the hotel front desk did not speak very much English, so it was a bit of a struggle getting info. Kind of strange for a hotel receptionist not to be able to communicate with the guests, but whatever.
The hotel was not in the nicest of locations and there was not much to do, safely, in the area. To get to the nicer part of Naples, we would have to fork out another €20 each way for a taxi. Kind of an expensive venture. This is why we hate cities so much, too expensive. We decided to go for it.
AmalfiCoast2012-7585The ride down to tourist district in Naples was long due to traffic and it was down-pouring rain, but we eventually got there.  We started walking along the waterfront near Castel Dell’Ovo and the rain started up again. A quick check on my phone indicated that a ristorante was immediately ahead. We jumped under the tent and had some lunch at Gusto & Gusto along the waterfront. They had killer pizza! Of course I think everyone did on this trip? While eating it started pouring rain. We were seated under a tent structure, so the water was pooling up. It eventually subsided a bit and we ventured out. Peppe had told us about some underground archaeological site in the city to check out. We started trying to locate it, but no one knew what we were talking about. It started dumping rain again and we ended up buying a €5 blue plaid umbrella from a enterprising young Indian fellow. He started pulling out a pink one but I quickly put the nix on that.

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We continued to walk around, stopped for a cappuccino, and walked some more. I started to get tired of aimlessly walking around, kind of like shopping in a mall feeling. Peppe had recommended a restaurant near Castel Del’Ovo called Oste Pazzo. The name translates to the “mad innkeeper”. How appropriate? We found it, but it was the worst meal of the trip. I asked them for a wine list, but they said they didn’t have one. The brought a red wine but it was chilled. Confused smile It tasted ok, so I kept it. We weren’t real hungry, but thought we should eat something since we had a big day of flying tomorrow. I had a plate of pasta and it was horrible. The sauce was watery. Denise seemed to be ok with her seafood salad. They tried to push dessert, but I just ordered a cappuccino. The cappuccino was the worst ever. No frothed milk and it was cold, so I sent it back. The second was warm, but still no froth. What the heck? They brought us some after dinner drink and then I paid the check with my credit card(turns out to be a big mistake…stay tuned.). Next they bring a painted tile with the name of the restaurant and say it is a gift for you. At this point things seem a little strange and a bit over the top. Denise left the tile on the table and we left. They started chasing us out the door with the tile and we said we didn’t want it. They started yelling in Italian and we just wanted out of there. Really weird place.  We hailed a taxi and made our way back to the hotel. We packed our stuff up and got ready for the 3:30am wake-up. Gonna be a long day of flying tomorrow.

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New Sprockets Dieter!

dieter5I am a huge Mike Myers and SNL fan, so whenever I can stick references to that in I am all over that. Anyway, before heading on vacation, I decided to change up the crankset on my tri bike to a compact(50T/34T). There are a lot of hills on most of the courses I ride and riding my old road bike, which has a compact, I realized how nice it was to spin up the hills at 80+rpm. This and the fact that after all the trials and tribulations of the faulty crankset that Cycles BiKyle originally put on my bike, I needed to restore some confidence in my bike lasting a long distance event without issue.

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I took my bike over to Sleeping Dog Pro Cycles in Topton to take a look at it and at first he wasn’t sure if I a compact crank would work with the front derailleur and the bracket on the bike. He offered to test it out with my other bikes’ crank to be sure. Fortunately it worked and he even had a Shimano DuraAce 7950 Compact crank, in my crank arm length(172.5), on closeout…Sweet! He installed it while I was on vacation and I picked it up the day after I got back.

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I took my first ride on the bike on Saturday with the new crank and it was awesome! I did a few hills in the beginning of my ride to see how it felt and my cadence was definitely higher and it made them seem so much easier. This will really help eliminating that cramping feeling in the run during races. And also provide guilt-free non-spinning rests on steep downhills! Smile The chain does rub the derailleur a little in the easiest gear on the back, but it isn’t that bad really. When John showed it to me in the shop it sounded worse. Below is the GPS track from my first ride with the new crank. Wasn’t a stellar ride due to it being my first ride since back from a week and a half vacation and it was especially hot.

LSD Ride by schwinbp at Garmin Connect – Details.

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Portman Nutrition Calculator

Portman Nutrition Calculator for helping to estimate your race nutrition needs….

http://www.portmancalculator.com

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Amalfi Coast Day 9-Valle dell Furriere…Third Time is A Charm!

AmalfiCoast2012-7489Denise came up with the great idea during our great breakfast at Hotel Savoia. We would take the SITA bus back to Amalfi, have lunch and then do the Valle Dell Ferriere hike that we missed twice before. It proved to be the ultimate plan. The SIAT Bus from Sorrento was easily boarded and we even got front seats for the adventurous ride. We had another great lunch at our favorite place in Amalfi, La Perla, and then caught a bus up to Scala to start our hike. The weather was cloudy, but not raining. The sun popped out a few times, but not for too long.

 

 

Hike GPS details here…
Hiking Amalfi Coast-Valle delle Ferriere 5-21-2012

AmalfiCoast2012-7490We started the hike with a quarter mile of steps going skyward. I am having my fill of steps by now. The hike was incredible! It basically skirted high along the mountainside just below some large cliffs. The ecosystem here was so different than everything else before. Very lush and green. We passed wildflowers and goats grazing on the higher slopes. We passed several waterfalls where I could have spent hours taking photographs. Since I used a lot of time at the waterfalls, we hightailed it back to Amalfi. Another 7+ miles of hiking on the books. Must be up to 40 by now for the trip.

 

 

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We stopped at one of our favorite gelato places in Amalfi to refuel before we got the bus back to Sorrento. We seated behind a young couple from Atlanta that also didn’t shut up the whole time. The girl kept saying “Sean look at this.” “Sean look at that.” all the while taking pictures nonstop thru the extremely dirty bus glass windows. Then she says “oh that one didnt turn out either.” Yeah no kidding! And the flash going off in the window isn’t going to reach the shoreline hundreds of feet below either. Drives me crazy. One of the cons of digital photography I guess. I just hope no one has to sit through looking at those images.

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We made it back to Sorrento a little before 9PM, cleaned up quick and headed to town for dinner. The owner of our hotel just opened a new restaurant in town called “Refood.” We saw it the night before, but the name just kind of steered us away. It sounded like recycled food or something. We stopped by and looked at the menu again. The owner saw us and came out just as we were considering walking away, so we felt guilty and went in. Well it was the BEST dinner of the trip! Very well prepared and reasonable too. Glad we went. So if ever in Sorrento, check out Refood and don’t let the name scare you. Re actually stands for king, and food meaning, well food.
Tomorrow we head to Naples before flying home on Wed.

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Amalfi Coast Day 8-Down to Sorrento

After enjoying our makeshift breakfast of croissant-looking rolls, bananas and yogurt, we loaded up our packs again and started on our way down to Sorrento. We hiked through back streets to the neighboring town of Colli di Fontalle. Then we made our way down into Sorrento through some back dirt roads. We made one wrong turn that lead to dead end passing a large German Shepherd thankfully in pen that was flipping out as we passed by. We eventually got into Sorrento and found and checked into our hotel, Hotel Savoia. Very nice place.

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We had some killer pizza for lunch at the little stand next to our hotel. Pizza was one of the best and very reasonable. Sorrento is more touristy than most of the places we have been. There are hoards of “cruise” people there. They are easy to spot by the long line of people being led around by someone holding a sign. Each person in the line has a little radio with an earpiece that the leader spoonfeeds them information. It doesn’t look very appealing to me. But hey, whatever floats your boat…no pun intended.

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We walked around the city a bit, sampling gelato along the way. We then headed back to the hotel, showered up, and enjoyed a nice dinner at a little place in a quiet alley. Quiet except for the couple from Alabama who sat behind us and didn’t shut up the whole time. Eventually they left and we continued with a quiet dinner.

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Getting to bed that night was a bit tough. Naples won some big soccer match and the town sounded like a war zone with all the fireworks and people yelling and screaming. It was crazy! Eventually I dozed off despite the noise.
No idea what we are doing tomorrow. Thinking maybe Vesuvius or Pompeii, but weather does not look great for either.

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Amalfi Coast Day 7-Positano to Colli di San Pietro

Today we start our longest hike with full packs. We started off with a hike up out of Positano climbing 2500 ft less than one hour. The cathedral of Santa Della Maria Castellano sits in the small village at the top of our climb. The church wasn’t very exciting, but the view was nice. By this time it was approaching lunch and I had seen a small ristorante called, Zi Peppe, on the map. We walked over but the place looked deserted. The door was unlocked, so we walked in. It was much larger inside than it appeared out and reminded me a large, German beer hall. I heard some noises in the kitchen so I went in and said “buon giorno!” A middle aged Italian gentleman came out and seated us. He didn’t speak much English, so I finally got to use some of the Italian I learned. We had a nice lunch and a Swiss lady we passed on the trail came in while we ate. We chatted with her for some time before we hit the trail again.

See hike GPS Route details here… Positano to Colli di San Pietro

more pictures here…

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The rest of the day was a long, hot hike. We were mainly in the direct sun all day, but the views were spectacular all day. Today was also our 11 year anniversary, so I was enjoying the fact that Denise and I could be happily spending the day hiking 8+ miles and >;;5000′ in elevation. We summited two mountains in the process getting to our destination of Belvedere Bed & breakfast in the little intersection of Colli di San Pietro. Named for the bus stop there.
The B&B was nice, but when Denise asked the lady when breakfast, she said “no breakfast”. LOL! A little false advertising there. The lady said there were two places to eat dinner, one up one street and one up the other. We stopped in the crammed little mini market beneath the room and got something for breakfast. It had a kitchen atleast so I guess that is where the breakfast part comes in.

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After getting showers, we picked a road and started on our search for dinner. After a half mile up the road we finally came across Picale Paradisio which said pizza on their sign. We walked down the dirt driveway of what looked like a farm. There was a fenced in field on the right with dog trials going on and a bunch of fenced in birds and ducks on the left. There were three white ducks quacking away at Denise like they wanted to tell her something. We contined into the building which appeared deserted, but there was a sound of screaming kids coming from the rear. We finally bumped into the chef who was making pizza. We asked if we could get some dinner, and he said sure…pizza!

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We sat at a table in the rear dining room. There was a children’s birthday party going on outside. They served us a bottle of wine, which was a bubbly, sparkling red that was so dark you could not see through it. Obviously homemade. They brought us out silver platters full of slices of delicious pizza in between similar ones for the kids. The kids were served one with French fries on it that they went crazy over, which we did not get. Another couple came in that were not as entertained by the situation as we were as they were yelling something to the young kid Erving us. They opened their sparkling wine and sent it back immediately. We ended drinking it…don’t want to waste good wine! The meal ending up only costing €20, which was our cheapest meal yet.
It was a memorable end to our anniversary. I am pretty lucky to be married to someone who is happing hiking all day over mountains and having a pizza and sparkling wine dinner!
Tomorrow we will be hiking through some towns down to Sorrento on mostly backroads. Should be relatively easy day.

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Amalfi Coast Day 6-Positano and Open Water Swimming in the Med

Today was our first full day in Positano and we decided to take easy and explore the town a bit. Positano is situated on a ravine in the cliffs, so walking around town is not as easy as it sounds. It is more up and down steps all day. We had a nice breakfast at the hotel and then walked down to the shopping district at the bottom of town for a bit. We then walked up to the other side and enjoyed cappuccino and tea at a roadside bar that overlooked the beach and ocean.

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Looking at the water all morning made me eager to finally get in a open water swim. My new Garmin 910xt has been screaming to track a open water swim, but the weather has not been warm enough until today it was bright and sunny. We had some lunch and trekked back down and up the other side of town to get my goggles and suit. Denise was wishing I had brought this stuff along so there was no way I was not swimming if we trekked all the way back to the beach again.
We found a place on the free area of the beach and Denise hung out there. I made my way to the water and the first dip of my feet reinforced my expectations…it was COLD! Must have been around 60-something. There is no way I am not swimming though, so I pushed on. It almost made my head ache. I hit the start button on my watch and headed out a bit then turned right to parallel the beach.

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It wasn’t long and I was in front of the pay beach, so I kept sighting the lifeguard to see if he yelled at me, but he didn’t. My wedding ring started sliding off like usual so I turned back and dropped it off with Denise. Heading back in again did not seem as cold. I started swimming back down along the beach. Just when I was about the line for the pay beach…WHAM! It felt like I hit an electrified brick wall. Not knowing what hit me, I immediately popped up with an excruciating pain on my head. I soon realized I must of run into a jellyfish. I slowly sidestroked my way to shore fearing running into another and pointing to my head occasionally as Denise seemed entertained by my sense of panic. No sympathy going on here. I finally made it to shore without incident and got to our towel. The pain was so strong it made me weak in the knees. I really wished I had more hair!

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We decided to see if a Farmacia was around and Denise remembered the lifeguard we talked to earlier, so we headed over to him. He sprayed some ammonia on my head and I was hoping it wasn’t just pee in a bottle. It helped.

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We stopped at a wine bar overlooking the coast on our way up to the hotel. I anesthetized my head a bit more and eventually the sting subsided. We had a nice pizza dinner that night at Soraceno d’ Orzo, which was a family run place on the minor road. Good pizza! Took a few night shots after and headed for some sleep. Big hike tomorrow. We will be hiking from Positano over two mountains to Colli San Pietro which is a small town sitting above Sorrento. Only one night there and then down to Sorrento.

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